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Properly Specifying Snow Retention Systems for Metal Roofs

Posted on December 12, 2024December 19, 2024 by Amy Crenan

The recent arctic blasts that hit the northeast brought to mind many things: hot cocoa, the evils of shoveling snow, a nice fire, the longing for a warm beach and, of course, how to properly specify snow retention systems on standing seam roofs. I’m not alone here, right?

All jokes aside, when I was scratching my brain for a new blog post, the cold weather and blizzards reminded me how easy it is to specify snow retention devices improperly. It might appear rather elementary at first; you might think it is as simple as planning for snow retention around entrances and frequent walkways. If so, you, along with many others, are mistaken. Let’s review some not-so-obvious areas to consider while planning a snow retention system for a standing seam metal roof.

Gutters

If a gutter is used that has a face high than the pan of the metal roof panels, the gutter must be protected from sliding ice and snow. Gutters are designed for one purpose – to channel the water to a downspout. If it is left unprotected it cannot resist sliding ice and snow.

Pipe penetrations

As ice and snow slides down a roof and encounters a pipe penetration, the force can cause the pipe to move down slope and damage the roof jack and the roof, or shear the pipe at the roof surface.

Upper roofs draining into lower roofs

The upper roof should have a snow retention system installed to prevent ice and snow from falling onto the roof below. Without snow retention, the sliding ice and snow can cause extensive damage to the roof membrane and to equipment on the lower roof.

Panel seams perpendicular to the main roof slope

Connector roofs or dormers are typical examples of this type of roof area. The main roof slope provides a surface for ice and snow to slide toward the eave. If it then encounters a roof surface that is perpendicular to this main slope, damage to the roof panels and trim on these roof areas can occur.

Valleys in high snow load areas

Valleys allow for snow to slide down a surface that is perpendicular to the panel seams. This offers the potential to bend panel seams down or shear them from the panel.

Aside from considering these areas while planning your snow retention system, also use clamps instead of screws to attach the system to the standing seams of the roof panels. Screws not only perforate roof panels but can also pin the roof and prevent it from floating as designed. Clamps, by comparison, have been tested and can be engineered for the specific roof to which they will be attached, allowing for the snow load, roof slope, panel run length and other details. These clamps do not penetrate the roof membrane, do not hinder roof expansion and are easily installed with a screw gun.

Final Recommendations

Lastly, I recommend having a registered, professional engineer design a retention system that meets the specified snow loads for the project. Without their expertise, there are possible repercussions. If the snow retention system cannot support the snow load, it can result in an entire system failure and major roof damage. This could potentially cause snow and ice to fall and hurt bystanders.

By keeping all of these in mind, along with proper installation and maintenance, a snow retention system will help your SSR survive winter blasts and protect pedestrians, too.

Metal Roof Skylight Benefits

Posted on April 14, 2023May 2, 2023 by Randy Tweedt

The beauty of metal roof system skylights can be a real benefit to the aesthetic value of a metal building project. Beyond looks, though, the proven benefits of daylighting are many: building occupant satisfaction from natural lighting, mold, mildew growth prevention, and, of course, energy savings, to name a few. In fact, once the decision has been made to go with metal for the roofing material, a skylight is often a natural tie-in when it comes to sustainable design—for both form and function. To make the most of the design choice, there are a few key considerations to bear in mind during the specification and pre-installation phases of the process.

Types of Metal Roof System Skylights

Common metal roofing skylight installation involves one of two types of skylights, Light Transmitting Panels (LTPs) and Curb Mount Skylights. Both metal roof system skylights supply natural light into the building and provide similar benefits.

LTPs, which are formed from a translucent material and come in many different panel profiles can be used not only in metal roofs but as an accessory for metal wall panels, too. One of the key benefits of LTPs is that the panel is formed so that it matches the configuration and characteristics of the system into which it is installed, and therefore can work seamlessly with specific metal roof systems.

Curbed (curb mount) skylights include a raised structure (“curb”) formed around the roof opening where the skylight will be attached. Curb skylights come in many shapes and styles.

In addition to the general “type” of the skylight, another consideration is selecting the best orientation for the skylight—which we will look at next.

Skylight installation Metal Roof Placement, Orientation, and Climate Factor

Placement and orientation are some of the most crucial factors in getting the maximum benefit from metal roof system skylights. During the planning phase, determine the best location to achieve optimal light and avoid obstructions (such as HVAC, plumbing, electrical, and vent pipes) below the skylight. In terms of getting the most out of the skylight from an energy-savings standpoint, climate, and exposure are also key factors. For example, with southern exposure, skylights provide an excellent level of passive solar heat during the colder winter months, while keeping cooling costs down during the summer heat. On the other hand, a skylight with western exposure will increase cooling costs if the structure is in a warm climate.

Skylights and Light Transmitting Panels supply natural light into the building as shown above.

Installation Planning and Timing

Metal roof skylight installation can be installed during or after the roof has been installed, but it is in the best interest of the project to plan for a skylight from the initial stages of the design phase to best accommodate and prepare for the addition of the skylight.

Safety Concerns, Responsibility, and Compliance

Skylights and LTPs should be guarded to protect from fall through the metal railing, nets or some other protection method. Last but certainly not least, it must be stated that it is the user’s responsibility to ensure that the installation and use of all light transmitting panels comply with State, Federal and OSHA regulations and laws, including, but not limited to, guarding all light transmitting panels with screens, fixed standard railings, or other acceptable safety controls that prevent fall-through.

For additional information about skylights for metal roofs, please contact MBCI at (877) 713-6224.

Commercial Metal Roof Flue & Pipe Penetration

Posted on April 13, 2023May 2, 2023 by kbuchinger

Pipe penetrations are one of the most common types of roof penetration in commercial metal roofs. Regarded for their proven record of longevity and value in providing weathertight solutions, a metal roof’s performance can be compromised by improper pipe or flue penetrations to accommodate other building systems. Done poorly, metal roof penetrations can cause leaks, building damage, and unnecessary expenses. When expertly designed and installed, however, pipe and flue penetrations may be successfully integrated into metal roofing systems without compromising performance. Here are five proven and practical guidelines to help avoid problems.

Metal Roof Flue & Pipe Penetration Tips

1. Use Qualified Installers

A qualified roofing installer is the best person to cut and install appropriately flashed and booted pipe penetration. If that isn’t possible or practical, then any penetration installed by another contractor should be fully coordinated with the architect/owner’s representative and the roofing contractor. This is the only way to be sure that the integrity of the roofing system is maintained.

2. Use Only Commercial Materials for Pipe Penetration

Use Only Commercial Materials for Pipe Penetration – To properly seal around the pipe penetration, use only a rubber roof jack made specifically for use with metal roofs. Do not use residential-type roof jacks or those designed for other roof types – they will not last over time. Further, do not use materials that are dissimilar to the standing seam metal roof, such as copper, lead, or galvanized metal roof jacks, which can corrode the metal roof system, or are of inferior quality with a short service life (less than 20 years). Proper commercial roofing products combine an EPDM rubber boot (or silicone for high-heat applications) with a bonded aluminum band to allow a compression seal to be formed at the roof panel.

Pipe and flue penetrations allow for a long-term performance of the roof.

Standard EPDM roof jacks can withstand temperatures up to 212º and are suitable for most applications.
High-heat, silicone-based roof jacks can withstand temperatures up to 437º and are suitable for flues.
Retrofit roof jacks are available in both temperature ranges for applications in which the roof jack cannot be slipped over the top of the pipe.
Use only tape and caulk sealants approved by the roof manufacturer.
Use only long-life fasteners at all exposed fastener applications. Note that zinc-plated fasteners will not last for 20 years and will typically void roof warranties for finish and weather tightness.

3. Metal Roof Flue & Pipe Penetration Locations

All planned commercial pipe and flue penetrations should be assessed first to be sure they are not inadvertently creating a potential leak or other problem. Rather, they should be located so they can be properly sealed with no immediate obstructions that would make the seal to the roof unnecessarily difficult or compromise the long-term performance of your pipe or flue penetration.

Never allow a pipe to penetrate through a standing seam. It is almost impossible to seal around the roof jack and the panel seam in a manner that will be leak free for the life of the roof. Therefore, always locate the roof penetration onto a smooth or flat area of the roof surface.
Place the penetration in a location that has the least amount of water draining into the immediate area around it.
Similarly, never allow a pipe to block the water flow down a roof panel and create a buildup of water. When a pipe is encountered that is too large to fit in the flat of the panel without blocking the water flow, use an aluminum pipe curb to allow the water to flow around the pipe and to provide a large, flat area in which to seal the roof jack to the roof surface.
In Northern areas, vent pipes should be located as high as possible or otherwise protected against sliding ice and snow from above. On roofs with slopes as low as 2:12, sliding snow, impacting an unprotected pipe, can tear the metal roof or shear the pipe off flush with the roof.

4. Allow for Thermal Movement

The metal roof flue and pipe penetration must allow for thermal movement of the roof. Pipes or other penetrations that are rigidly attached to the structure below may not be able to move as the roof expands and contracts. In these cases, the hole in the standing seam roof should be large enough to allow for this movement without the roof panels impinging on the penetration.

5. Check Warranties

If the penetrations are to be included in a manufacturer’s weather tightness warranty, the manufacturer must approve in writing beforehand the materials and methods to be used to install the penetrations. Failure to follow this guideline may result in the penetrations being excluded from the weather-tightness warranty. If everyone involved with the roofing penetrations is aware of and follows these five guidelines, then in the end everyone should be quite happy with the long-term performance of the roof. If not, the potential for roof leaks and other related problems only increases.

When Should You Repair Or Replace Your Roof?

Posted on August 26, 2022November 21, 2022 by Randy Tweedt

Can Metal Roofing Be Installed Over Shingles?

Posted on April 14, 2022November 21, 2022 by Jason Allen

Why Upgrade a Roof to Metal Panels?

Posted on March 2, 2022May 25, 2023 by MBCI

Metal Panel Roof Restoration & Installation

Posted on September 27, 2021November 21, 2022 by Randy Tweedt

Everything in Order: MBCI’s Online Ordering Assembly Feature

Posted on May 19, 2021July 29, 2024 by Tyler Roose

There’s no getting around it. Erecting any building involves thousands of parts. Different sizes, colors, lengths, types – you name it. Depending on the nature of the project, there could be numerous parts to be ordered and accounted for. Although MBCI simplifies the process, it can still be a lot to manage. Until now, everyone has come up with their own method – like the many long-timers who write it all out by hand. But for those newer to the process, it can be overwhelming. Now we’re taking the guesswork out of it and making the process considerably easier, with exciting new user-friendly features on our online ordering platform.

With the new addition of “Assemblies”, you can simply choose which area of a building you’re working on, fill in some details such as panel type, trim condition, attachment type, size, and color, and the system will do the rest of the work for you – making sure you have any necessary fasteners, accessories or other parts, adding everything to your order. No longer will you have to study construction drawings, note fastener types and add everything to your order by hand. No longer will you find yourself on-site without the needed materials. And, even if you do, the online ordering platform is available right from your phone to get whatever you need on the way ASAP.

As Director of Development Tyler Roose says, “We’ve heard testimonials from many, many customers and it’s the only way they like to order anymore. It’s a huge time saver.”

Ready to get started? Head to shop.mbci.com. If you are registered and an existing customer, you should have everything you need to log in. For new customers, simply fill in the requested information and provide your customer number to create an account. If you don’t have a customer number, reach out to your district sales manager or customer service rep.

Once you’re logged in, you’ll see the dashboard, which has links to any existing orders, quotes or other information you may need.

To get started on a new quote, simply click the “Start New Quote” button, which will give you an option to name your new quote and use a template if desired (more on that later).

Once you’ve begun a new quote, you will land on the Products page, where you have the option to shop by category, such as accessories, fasteners, panels, structural and trim. However, for this purpose, let’s focus on the newest option: Assemblies.

Choosing “Assemblies” will open a list of component types to choose from. For this example, we’re selecting PBR, but you’ll choose whichever is appropriate to your project. From the next list, select the area you’re working on, such as eaves, gutters, valleys, corners, bases, etc.

Once you’ve selected your assembly, the form will prompt you to choose details such as thickness, color, lineal footage of the assembly being used, and further options depending on the assembly and area you’re working on. Then, all the core trim items as well as necessary fasteners, sealants and accessories are automatically added to your material list for review. Notice the additional parts automatically added on the PBR form. If satisfied with your work, click “add to cart”, and a more formal review can now be completed once all parts from the project are accounted for.

Now you can simply repeat this process for whatever other areas you need. You can save and share this quote with others who may need to review and approve. If you anticipate needing similar orders in the future, choose the “Save as Quote Template” option in the dropdown box. The next time you have a similar project, choose this option when you start a new quote, then simply make whatever changes are necessary – colors, lengths, quantities, etc. – and you’ll be done with your order in much less time than with previous methods.

If for any reason you need to make changes to a quote, simply use the “Modify Quote” button at the bottom of the quote page.

Be sure to check out the other handy features on the online ordering site, such as related literature, documents and parts at the bottom of each product page and in catalogs. You can also search by keyword or use the navigation at the top for anything you might be looking for.

We hope you’ll take the time to learn the new system. It’s sure to save you innumerable hours in the long run. And if you get stuck or run into any problems, we’re here to help. Refer to the FAQ and don’t hesitate to get one of our sales individuals involved. We are all fully versed on online ordering and happy to help.

The Importance of Cleaning Metal Roof and Wall Panels

Posted on February 10, 2021 by Randy Tweedt

Metal panels need attention; they should not be taken for granted. True, they are a notably long-lasting and attractive choice, particularly with the myriad colors and protective finishes available, but once installed, proper care is imperative in order to maintain their durability, performance and good looks for decades.

What are the main culprits of potential damage? Dirt and residue (such as from trees or animals) left to sit on metal panels, for instance, can cause the irreversible degradation of protective coatings, thereby compromising the longevity of roof and/or wall systems. Additionally, corrosive elements, including bacteria, mold, mildew or even acid rain can damage the structural integrity of the panels. Additionally, buildup of foreign elements, such as leaves, can hide potential leak areas or places that may be rotting away. Even in terms of energy efficiency, keeping the panels clean may help a roof reflect heat as they were originally intended.

To keep panel appearance in top shape, protecting the finishes must be a priority—otherwise, you may find yourself needing to re-coat the panels. Stains from leaves and moisture, algae and lime deposits that remain on panels for extended periods can do serious harm to the finish. It should be noted, however, that re-coating should only be considered if the panels remain structurally sound and if doing so wouldn’t void the manufacturer warranty.

How often should you clean metal panels? Most experts agree that at a minimum, an annual cleaning is advisable in order to keep the panels free of common elements that can jeopardize the integrity of the finishes. If you have heavy tree overhang, you may need to clean it or remove debris a little more frequently.

Deep cleaning to remove more stubborn substances (e.g., tree sap, oxidation) can be done every 3 to 5 years, depending on the building conditions, location and weather, etc. Interim, moderate cleanings can also be performed following substantial weather events and seasonal allergen build-up. It’s a good idea, in fact, to assess roof conditions before winter hits to identify any potential issues that need to be addressed.

No matter the frequency, perhaps the most important advisory when it comes to cleaning the panels is to follow the panel manufacturer’s recommendations regarding who should perform the work and with what solutions and tools so as not to void any warranties. In some instances, it may be beneficial (or perhaps even required) to have a professional building surface cleaning company with metal panel experience do the work.

Tips on Proper Cleaning Techniques and Solutions

As for the maintenance and cleaning instructions, it’s always best to refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines in order to best protect specific products, for example, to determine which cleaning solutions and techniques work best for a given manufacturer’s panels. Neglect or improper care can degrade the finish, compromising not only the visual appearance and performance but, as noted, can also potentially void the panel warranty. But maintaining the panels doesn’t just entail washing them like you would a car; it also means keeping them free of harmful debris.

Here are a few general tips for the proper cleaning of metal panels (again, refer to the panel manufacturer’s specific directions):

Simple cleaning: generally, water and mild detergent will be sufficient. Do NOT use bleach, which can change the finish color or have a harmful interaction with certain finishes.

Water-soluble dirt or other deposits requiring more complete cleaning: you can use a solution of hot or cold water mixed with detergent. In a container of water, use a 5 percent solution of commonly used commercial (non-industrial, non-bleach) mild detergent. Use a cloth or a soft-bristle brush for application of the cleaning solution, followed by a clean water rinse. Alternatively, pressure-washing with a 40° tip is also an option.

Non-water-soluble deposits such as tar, grease, oil and adhesives: a solvent or alcohol-based cleaner may be required. In this case, since most organic solvents are flammable and/or toxic, they must be handled accordingly. Generally, keep them away from open flames, sparks and electrical motors; use adequate ventilation, protective clothing and goggles; and read the manufacturer’s Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) of any solvent used for any other specific safety details.

The following are among the cleaners widely recognized by manufacturers for this type of non-water-soluble cleaning: alcohols—denatured alcohol (ethanol) and isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol); and solvents, including VM&P Naphtha, mineral spirits, kerosene, and turpentine (wood or gum spirits).

For any level of cleaning, do NOT use wire brushes, abrasives, or similar tools that will erode the surface coating and leave scratches or other finish damage that can lead to corrosion. Additionally, always test a small area before proceeding with any of the cleaning agents mentioned to ensure there is no adverse effect resulting from the product’s use.

Remember, the misuse or abuse of any of the acceptable cleaning agents will automatically void any manufacturer’s warranty for the affected surfaces, so be sure to check with the manufacturer and also follow directions on any cleaning products used.

By following the tips above, installers can keep metal panels looking great and performing well for years to come.

To learn more about the importance of cleaning metal panels, contact your MBCI representative or check out our blog post on metal panel maintenance.

Types of Standing Seam Metal Roof Clips & Why They’re Essential

Posted on December 1, 2020 by MBCI

A successful standing seam metal roof project goes beyond the obvious panels, substrate and frame. In order for the roof to look great and perform properly, don’t neglect the importance of selecting the proper roof clips for your given project. What may seem like a minor detail is, quite literally, what’s holding it all together. Here we’ll take a look at the key factors that go into selecting the correct clip type and see why this is so essential for the well-being of any standing seam metal roof.

When you are looking at the installation manual or if you’re ordering your materials directly—or even if you’re submitting the order to MBCI to do the engineering for you—you’re going to need to know and identify certain details. The roof clip selection criteria will be based predominantly on two main factors: 1. What is your insulation system and 2. What are the expansion and contraction requirements for your roof? You’ll also need to know your project’s roof geometry and how the panel you’ve selected is able to meet the roof clip range on a particular plane, because the distance the panel spans impacts what type of clip you would use. Additionally, the type of substrate you are attaching the clip to will dictate what type of clip you should use. Is it going over wood, metal decking, open framing?

With that information in hand, you’re ready to do your due diligence. MBCI classifies clips in two ways: high or low; fixed or floating.

The high and low clips are predominantly determined by insulation systems. For a low clip, for instance, MBCI will typically will go up to a maximum of four inches of insulation; a high clip will go up to six inches of insulation.

Here’s a bit of a caveat. What we’re referring to is how much insulation you’re trying to compress between the roof panel and the substrate—and particularly the purlins or the steel frame you’re attaching it to. The clips are designed with a “stand-off” that elevates the roof panel above the substrate to permit insulation to pass between the roof panel and the substrate at the structural attachment points. A low clip is typically a 3/8-inch stand-off; a high clip, depending on panel type, can be 1-inch, 1-3/8-inch or even possibly 2-inch.

Knowing this helps determine whether you’re choosing the right clip because, let’s say, you go with too tall of a clip or not tall enough to accommodate your insulation system, then the system’s going to be difficult to install and will not perform correctly. And watch out for roof systems that have roof clips with no stand-off that do not permit fiberglass insulation to be installed or is discouraged from being installed at the clip lines due to impact on the panel appearance.

Another factor here is if you are putting the roof over a solid substrate, such as wood or metal decking. In this case, we will typically default customers to a low clip system because they don’t need to accommodate for any sort of fiberglass insulation systems. We’re assuming the insulation is occurring elsewhere below the decking or incorporated with the decking, such as rigid board insulation. In the case of rigid board insulation over decking, a low clip is still utilized but with an added bearing plate. The clip is attached through the rigid board insulation into the decking or structure below.

The more particulars you know of your intended insulation system to determine the clip height needed, the better prepared you will be in determining the right clips. Will there be fiberglass insulation or rigid board insulation or no insulation? What is the insulation thickness? What type of insulation system? Share these details with your MBCI sales rep to help you get started selecting the right clip height.

You can also find much of this information on the MBCI website by searching the roof type and then reviewing the corresponding installation manual and details to determine what clip height to use based on your insulation and substrate.

Which brings us to the other main factor in selecting the right clip. A fixed or floating clip is dependent on the substrate and how much anticipated movement is needed for the roof size.

With fixed clip systems, there are no moving parts in the clip. The ability for that clip to expand and contract as the roof expands and contracts is dependent on the substrate. In layman’s terms, if you were to screw that clip to a purlin, as the purlin heats up and cools down, it’s going to allow for some of the movement of that roof. Generally, when a fixed clip is installed over a metal building purlin, the manufacturer advises a limit of 100-foot maximum on a single roof surface. This is an average and can be impacted also by roof color and geographic location of the roof install that control temperature swing ranges, i.e., 100-foot maximum is a guide.

It is advised that the fixed clip always be installed over open framing in order to permit the greatest ability to accommodate roof panel expansion/contraction. It is not advised to use fixed clips attached to a solid substructure because those don’t accommodate roof panel movement.

If the roof needs to be installed over a solid substrate OR if the roof plane is over a slope more than 100 feet, then the manufacturer would prescribe a floating clip system. [Note: A floating clip can also be used even if the slope is less than 100 feet.] The floating clip system permits the roof panel to move (expand/contract) independent of the substrate to which the clip is installed. The system either contains a clip with a tab seamed into the roof panel rib that is able to float/slide where it attaches to the clip, or the clip is such that when it engages the panel seam is doesn’t restrict the panel movement. The only thing controlling for floating clips is the maximum range of the clips that allows it to float. In other words, how far can the clip tab or panel slide at the clip attachment. The panel manufacturer again will have information as to this amount. You will need to make sure they’re aware of what the maximum single panel run distance is from low side to high side.

One more thing to note is that not every roof system is available with fixed clips and not all systems have high and low clips (although the majority do). That said, educating yourself and researching the panel you’re looking at will give you the information you need to make the determination as to which clip will not only work best, but potentially will work at all. Every panel has its own roof clips, so the roof clips are not interchangeable across all systems. An essential part of selecting a roof panel is verifying that its clip attachment is suitable for your project.

It might not be immediately obvious that you have the wrong clip. For instance, let’s say you ordered an Ultra-Dek® roof and you ordered an Ultra-Dek® clip. That sounds straightforward, but did you order the RIGHT Ultra-Dek® clip for your particular project? The roof may even be able to be installed regardless, but, after installation you may discover it doesn’t perform properly or as intended due to the wrong combination of clips, insulation and substrate. That’s why it is so critical to check with the manufacturer that you have the right clip before you purchase or start putting down the roof.

For more information, reach out to your local sales rep or go to the MBCI Ask An Expert site to confirm the clip you need to make your project a success.